In spite of the weather not really getting the memo that spring is on the way, we nonetheless persevered in our pursuit of enjoying a day out in Kilkenny that won’t cost a fortune. To this end, we set off early on a Friday morning for what I lovingly dubbed a ‘magical mystery tour’ of Kilkenny. And readers, that is exactly what we had.
Arán Artisan Bakery and Bistro
Napoleon is credited with saying that an army marches on its stomach- so too does a 32 year old woman whose first love in life is food. With this in mind, we started our day at Arán, the bakery bistro powerhouse on Kilkenny’s Barrack Street. As we were there not long after opening, the bistro was quiet. The gentle hiss of the coffee machine and the soft chat of the other patrons provided a nice background noise as we sat looking out the window opposite our table. Weekdays sees Arán’s breakfast special: a choice of a meal from their small but perfectly formed breakfast menu, plus unlimited tea or filter coffee. I opted for their ‘novocado’ poached eggs on toast, while my boyfriend, Mark, went for the mini breakfast sandwich. Both served with steaming cups (coffee for me, tea for him), we enjoyed the food as much as the morning mood. By the time we left, the place had filled up significantly and would be full until closing. I was glad we went as early as we did- the calm before the storm is my favourite.
Jerpoint Glass
Stomach full, we followed the Waterford Road out through Stoneyford and down a twisty local road for a little while before we found what we were looking for: the turn off for Jerpoint Glass. We were hoping to catch a glimpse of some glass blowing before having a look in the gift shop. When we got out of the car, we were immediately greeted by a beautiful big red dog in a blue bowtie. He ran circles around us, bestowing us with vigorous whacks of his strong tail. Then he bounded off towards the entrance, looking back as if to beckon us onwards. We dutifully followed him into the glass studio where we met with James and Johnny, two veteran glass blowers who generously invited us to watch them at their craft. We sat in a specially created viewing stand, feeling like VIP guests as both men talked us through the blowing process and explained each step they were doing. The transition from taking a blob of molten glass, through watching it expand and take shape, to taking its final form is truly incredible. All the while the red dog (whose name we learned was Buddy) and
an older black dog, Molly, kept us company. Hoping for maybe five minutes of a demonstration, we stayed for an hour utterly engaged and transfixed by the whole process.
When we were finally able to drag ourselves away, we popped into the gift shop for a look. The explosion of colourful glass was the first thing we noticed. From vases in beautiful amethyst, jugs in stunning turquoise, and garden ornaments in fiery crimson and tangerine, it was as if a rainbow had been captured and transmuted into glass. We each picked up something to buy (difficult not to) and chatted to the lovely woman, Kate, in the gift shop. We mentioned our mission of finding craft demonstrations across Kilkenny, and she gave us some tips. Armed with our very own pieces of Jerpoint glass, we said a final goodbye to the dogs and headed back out on the road to continue our magical mystery tour of Kilkenny.
Knockdrinna Café
We found ourselves back in the village of Stoneyford, where we decided to visit the locally renowned Knockdrinna Café. Knockdrinna produces incredible butter, which we are lucky enough to include on our food tour, so I was very excited to call in. Their breakfast menu is fantastic- the veggie breakfast immediately caught my eye- however as neither of us were hungry enough for a second breakfast within a few hours of the first, we opted for a drink and something sweet instead. I went for a Tunisian orange cake (one of my favourites, and I make a nice one too if I say so myself) and Mark opted for the chocolate studded blondie. We sat outside in a charming enclosed yard, taking in the peacefulness of our surroundings. The treats were as delicious as expected, and we loved the gentle ambiance of the café. Before leaving, we called into the farmhouse deli, where we were blown away by the array of food on offer. From pre-made pies, to salads, to cheese, to (of course) their own incredible butter, there is such a wide variety to choose from. I couldn’t leave without picking up some Coolatin cheddar (another tasty offering on our food tour) and a vegetarian pie for later on. Now, fully stuffed, we headed back to the car to see where the road would take us next.